Thoughts and Guide to Stella Engine Maintenance and
Repair
The joy of Stella ownership is generally associated with the boat’s superb sailing ability and not in the engine’s ability to reliably plug against a foul tide for hours on end or get home quickly when the weather turns nasty.
A typical owner regularly checks and adjusts standing and running rigging, but perhaps gives less regard to the ‘lurking lump’ of machinery hiding under the cockpit sole. When this fails, which is usually at the most inconvenient time, it is generally thought to be the fault of the maker/ boatyard/ co-owner etc, but we Stella owners rarely blame ourselves for lack of attention!
There are times when an engine can break down due to internal failure, but these occasions are few compared to simple engine failures such as a blocked fuel or cooling system or a slipping drive belt. Unlike cars, boats cannot be pulled over on the ‘hard shoulder’ to await the breakdown services, and it really has to be a potentially life threatening situation before you should call the Lifeboat out!
Regular inspection and maintenance by the owner can overcome many breakdown problems, and if you get to know your engine well, you will gain great satisfaction in recognising problems before they cause havoc. You will also be able to recover from minor breakdowns without resort to ‘expert’ help, thus saving a stash of cash and lost sailing time.
If you haven’t got a manual for your engine, you should get one now and gradually work your way through sections of it, cup of coffee in hand and engine cover off on a quiet weekend. Simply being able to identify the various components and those that are likely to give trouble will take you a long way in being able to diagnose and sometimes overcome problems before and when they occur.
It is difficult to give Stella owners’ specific advice on engine inspection and maintenance, as there are many different engine installations, e.g. Vire and Dolphin petrol engines, as well as Petter and Yanmar diesels. Most lie between 6HP to 12Hp (Horse Power), so tend to be single or twin cylinders.
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YSE8 Yanmar Diesel which was installed in Caravelle by the author in 2004. |
6HP restored Petter diesel |
The following guide to inspection is not comprehensive, but will hopefully give you some idea for your own personal check list. This is in addition to vital regular maintenance, such as oil and fuel filter changes that should be carried out at least once a year.
Some of the checklist actions should be carried out every time you go sailing, whilst others can be less frequent, but never forgotten!
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Check |
Action |
How often |
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Oil Level (Both engine and
transmission if they are separate) |
Use dip stick and clean rag |
Before every day’s sailing.
(Carry at least a pint of spare oil) |
|
For oil, fuel and water
leaks |
Wipe over engine regularly
with clean rag. Any leaks will soon be apparent if you pick up new oil, fuel
or water on rag. |
Before every day’s sailing. |
|
Alternator drive belt |
Look for any frayed edges
or perishing. Check tension by twisting belt through 900 on
longest run. It should not be too tight as this will damage the alternator drive
shaft bearings over a period of time, conversely it must not slip! |
Before every day’s sailing.
(Carry a spare belt in case of emergency) |
|
Water pump drive belt |
Same as for alternator,
however the drive force should be less than the alternator, so the belt can
be slightly slacker. The water pump bearing are also not as robust as the
alternator’s, so take care. |
Before every day’s sailing.
(Carry a spare belt in case of emergency) |
|
Stern gland |
Ensure that the gland is greased
properly, so that water does not come in, nor does the bearing overheat. |
Before and at the end of
every day’s sailing + every hour of motoring. Check temperature when engine
is stopped; this can be slightly warm, but not hot! |
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Check level of electrolyte
in the cells and top up with de-ionised water if necessary. |
Once every couple of weeks,
more often if night sailing or using power without the engine running on a
regular basis. |
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Check Specific Gravity of electrolyte
in all the cells. These should be fairly consistent in readings indicating
that no one particular cell is failing. For summer sailing (between 150C
and 200C , the readings will be 1.110 – 1.130 (discharged),
1.230-1.250 (70% charged), 1.270-1.290 (charged)) |
This is important if you
are anticipating a night sail and you want the battery for starting at the
end of it! Hydrometers can be bought
fairly cheaply and are the best way of ascertaining the state of battery
charge. |
|
Cooling system flow |
Check that you have
adequate water coming out with the exhaust at tick-over (if water cooled
system). You have to get to know what to expect for your engine and look for
changes. You can also place your
hand carefully on the engine (not near exhaust) after it has been running for
a while. This should not be very hot (typically 550C) |
Every time you start the engine. |
|
Cooling system inlet
filter. |
Turn inlet cock off and
remove filter element. |
Monthly, but immediately if
you suspect less water is flowing through the engine than previously. |
|
Cooling system pipe work |
Check for tightness, leaks
and chaffing. |
Weekly, but a quick visual
check each time the boat is used. |
|
Exhaust |
Check for possible leaks with
the ‘boards up’. You may see cooling water ‘weeping’ out at joints. If you
are not sure, then make a weak mixture of water and washing up liquid and
brush around the joint and look for bubbles. |
Weekly, or immediately if
you suspect that exhaust fumes may be escaping. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS FOR THOSE IN THE
CABIN. |
|
Electrics |
Check battery voltage on
meter if you have one. This should go up to about 14.2V initially after
starting and then drop back to about 13V after the charge used in starting is
restored. If the voltage remains permanently high or low you may be over or
undercharging the battery. |
At the start of a day’s
sailing. |
|
Electrics |
Check all connections for tightness
and corrosion (including battery terminals). Also check for trapped or
chaffed wires. |
Every couple of weeks. |
I hope the check list given above is helpful, and I realise that it may not be complete. I have also not included what to do if things go wrong, for example if you run out of fuel and have to bleed the fuel system on a diesel engine. These should be found in your handbook which you must have on the boat with you.
It is also strongly recommended that you have decent set of tools including spanners, screwdrivers and pliers on board. You should also carry some spare wire, tape or even or string for emergencies. These are essential to proper maintenance and repair and even if you can’t fix it, they may be useful to someone who can give you a helping hand using your tools.
Paul Tattersall –
Owner of Stella Caravelle #83 (and Lecturer in Automotive
Engineering at