S T E L L A
Class Association
The 'Amateur Stella Surveyors' Checklist (continued)
The Hull
Rot - Do not stick screw drivers or spikes into wood without the owner's express permission!
A professional survey will systematically work around the inside and outside of the hull with a special tapping hammer and moisture meter.
This takes a long time and you have to have experience of what the different sounds and measurements mean. The best the amateur can do is to
systematically look at every plank for splits, paint bubbles or signs of damage and previous repair.
This plank is badly split in one place, but can probably still be repaired, rather than replacing the whole length.
Seek professional advice on how to do this properly - it's your safety at stake!
Do the planks appear tight? Look for symmetry at bows and stern - damage from impact can show.
Are there any obviously loose copper nails and roves? check inside as well. There are lots of them to look at!
Look for signs of looseness where the internal floors are screwed to the hull, particularly where the engine is supported.
Anodes
I am a fan of external sacrificial anodes, as they stop corrosion of the keel, propeller and engine parts whilst the boat is in the water,
however some boats do not have them, relying instead on good quality painting of the keel and a local anode on the prop shaft.
If the boat is fitted with an external anode, this must be connected internally back to any metal that needs protection, i.e the prop shaft,
engine and keel. Check that the anode is connected!