S T E L L A
Class Association
| Check | Action | Period |
| Oil Level (Both engine and transmission if they are separate) |
Use dip stick and clean rag | Before every day’s sailing. (Carry at least a pint of spare oil) |
| For oil, fuel and water leaks | Wipe over engine regularly with clean rag. Any leaks will soon be apparent if you pick up new oil, fuel or water on rag. | Before every day’s sailing. |
| Alternator drive belt | Look for any frayed edges or perishing. Check tension by twisting belt through 900 on longest run. It should not be too tight as this will damage the alternator drive shaft bearings over a period of time, conversely it must not slip! |
Before every day’s sailing. (Carry a spare belt in case of emergency) |
| Water pump drive belt | Same as for alternator, however the drive force should be less than the alternator, so the belt can be slightly slacker. The water pump bearing are also not as robust as the alternator’s, so take care. |
Before every day’s sailing. (Carry a spare belt in case of emergency) |
| Stern gland | Ensure that the gland is greased properly, so that water does not come in, nor does the bearing overheat. | Before and at the end of every day’s sailing + every hour of motoring. Check temperature when engine is stopped; this can be slightly warm, but not hot! |
| Battery | Check level of electrolyte in the cells and top up with de-ionised water if necessary. | Once every couple of weeks, more often if night sailing or using power without the engine running on a regular basis. |
| Battery | Check Specific Gravity of electrolyte in all the cells. These should be fairly consistent in readings indicating that no one particular cell is failing. For summer sailing (between 150C and 200C , the readings will be 1.110 – 1.130 (discharged), 1.230-1.250 (70% charged), 1.270-1.290 (charged)) | This is important if you are anticipating a night sail and you want the battery for starting at the end of it! |